Tie the knot as close as possible to the relief, or slide the relief up to it afterwards, but before reassembly. You will want to tie a simple but tight knot on the inside and leave a little slack in the case for any slight migration that may occur later. Pull through enough to be able to meet the soldering locations on the board, and then some. Once you get both sides of the wire through, this becomes much easier. Again, this will seem tedious, but will be worth the results. The structure of the relief makes it act like chinese finger-cuffs, so apply the force as shown to ease moving it down the wire. Do not lube the cable in any way if you can avoid it, as the friction between the relief and cord is somewhat desireable. Be sure to cut with the angle shown to make this process easier. cut the remnant of the cord end as shown and use the longer unbroken conductor as a 'fish' to thread it through, after twisting the braid and perhaps tinning the end.

The broken side will pull out or at least stretch the insulation. If so, find which conductor broke first by pulling on the wire alone.

If you were patient and careful, you might have been successful in separating the relief from the cord. If at all possible, start from the large end first and you might be able to avoid some extra work. Try to cut along a spine where you may have the chance to glue it back together again. If despite your best efforts you cannot separate the cord from the strain relief, you can cut into it with a razor as shown. You will be breaking this bond, but it's not terribly necessary as you will see in later steps. The two vinyl-rubbers partially vulcanize during this process, causing the adhesion. The strain relief is cast onto the cord at the factory, but it not normally glued. I use a small jewler's screwdriver for this process with dramatic success. Don't give up too easily and you should be able to get it out. This may seem overly tedious, but it is worth it to make an old power supply new again. It's not a big deal if you damage the insulation here as you will be cutting this section off later anyway. Using a pin, seal-pick, or other similar tool, try to unstick the wire insulation from the strain relief, starting from the small end. Also be very careful not to allow the tool to slip and go into your hand or somewhere else. Be very careful not to allow the tool to penetrate too far, or you could ruin the transformer. The idea is to try to work the pry tool through the seal, and then on top of the lip to start working the halves apart. Once you have compromised the seal on all four sides, carefully work into the corners until you can start to pry the halves apart. Work left to right along the same side, then do the other, and then the narrower sides. You may have to dig in a little, but it will eventually pop. Starting from the middle of each side, carefully pry at the angle shown while applying some inward pressure (DO NOT HAVE THE PRYING TOOL FACING ANY PART OF YOUR BODY). Typically the halves meet as shown in the pic (with the prongs facing downward). Closely examine the groove going around it and look for what half the bottom of the groove belongs to. To open the case, you will need a (small but sturdy) sharp screwdriver or similar, preferably with a wide blade.

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